Monday’s with Aldo

Posted on 17th Mar 2010 @ 12:48 PM

Breaking the law: Produttori del Barbaresco violates the presumption that wine with pedigree and terroir cannot be produced by a co-operative winery. Not so here, especially under the inspired stewardship of winemaker Aldo Vacca, the Nebbiolo — that’s all they make — from Langhe up through the single-vineyard bottlings are every bit as good as any estate bottled Barbaresco, and, they do that at normal people prices.

Don’t take my word for it. Antonio Galloni, who covers Italy for the Wine Advocate, had this to say: “The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair.”

Here’s the dance card:

2008 Nebbiolo delle Langhe

Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate 10/09: “The 2008 Langhe Nebbiolo shows gorgeous depth and purity in a core of dark fruit, spices and minerals. The finish is long and polished, especially for a wine at this level. This fresh, vinous Nebbiolo offers terrific balance and is a great choice for readers who want to begin an exploration into Nebbiolo – one of the world’s noble grapes – without breaking the bank. Once again, the Produttori have turned out what may very well be the very finest value in Nebbiolo, and all from young vines in Barbaresco to boot! Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016.” 90 points

2006 Barbaressco

Galloni: “The 2006 Barbaresco is a gorgeous, generous Barbaresco loaded with ripe dark fruit. This is an especially harmonious, refined Barbaresco from the Produttori that is also somewhat unusual for its dark, brooding personality. Licorice, leather and tar linger on the powerful finish. Today the wine is remarkable for its depth and concentration, while the aromatic complexity will develop in bottle. If the regular Barbaresco holds this much power, I can only wonder what the Riservas might have in store. Simply put, this is a marvelous effort. This is Lot 9.125 Anticipated maturity: 2011-2031.” 92 points

2005 Barbaresco Riserva “Rio Sordo”

Galloni: “The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo jumps from the glass with an exciting array of freshly cut roses, spices and raspberries. The 2005 is an especially dense, rich Rio Sordo endowed with superb depth and great overall balance. Floral notes accompany the wine from start to finish in an irresistible display of the perfume that makes Barbaresco such a sexy wine. In 2005 the Rio Sordo is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025.” 92 points

2005 Barbaresco Riserva “Moccagatta”

Galloni: “The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta is one of the more compact, linear wines in this vintage. The Moccagatta offers up sensations of bright red fruits, flowers, spices and vanilla in a rather unyielding style. The wine should improve in bottle but the tannins will likely always remain somewhat firm. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.” 90 points.

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