It’s time for our semi-regular tasting with Brezza importer, Joe Mirretti. If you haven’t already tried the 2008 Brezza San Lorenzo Vineyard Dolcetto, and you like wines bristling with energy and super-pure orchard-like freshness, you’ll probably dig it too. Matt Kramer certainly does. He writes: “Simply put, this is great dolcetto, one of the finest I’ve tasted. Why? Because, as Kramer points out, Brezza’s Dolcetto is planted in a Barolo vineyard. Not just any Barolo vineyard, but the “San Lorenzo” sub-plot of the legendary Cannubi vineyard, arguably one of the top “Cru’s” of Barolo. Great raw materials do not always make great wine, though, and fourth generation winemaker Enzo Brezza gets it. Here’s Matt Kramer’s take on Enzo’s wines: “They are beautifully made wines that emphasize an almost digital delineation of flavors where nothing tastes muddy or blurry.” Digital delineation. I like that. And it’s true. The wines up and down the range from the juicy tank aged Barbera, the terroir-drivenCannubi Barbera aged in botti and the sublime single vineyard Barolos have a crystalline, dare I say, Pinot like clarity. Kramer is particularly taken with the Brezza Dolcetto: “It reveals precise scents and tastes of wild cherry allied to the almond note characteristic of the variety, as well as a minerality that derives from the Cannubi vineyard. Such a quality is exceedingly rare in a dolcetto. Although dolcetto is famously a drink-now red, this wine will age beautifully for upward of a decade.” Don’t know about aging it that long. It’s just too good to keep from drinking it right now. Hope you can stop by tonight. Joe will be pouring the following Brezza wines from 5:30 until 7:30 tonight.
Brezza Barbera d’Alba Santa Rosalia 2007 Unoaked, tank-fermented and aged Dolcetto Barbera with a glass closure. $17.95
Barolo Sarmassa 2005: “The 2005 Barolo Sarmassa is the richest of these offerings. Here the aromas and flavors tend towards the darker end of the spectrum. Vibrant black cherries, menthol and sweet spices swirl around in the glass, while suggestions of tobacco and grilled herbs come to life on the long, pure finish. The Sarmassa is a gorgeous, beautifully layered wine that should develop well for a number of years. It is a terrific bottle in this vintage. In 2005 the estate did not produce its top bottling, Bricco Sarmassa, and all of the fruit from that vineyard was used for this wine. The soils at Sarmassa contain more clay and less sand than the estate’s other parcels, which gives this wine its structure. The fruit was harvested on September 27. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.” Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate $67
plus tow special white wine guests:
Punset Langhe Arneis 2008 $17.95